Recently back from Cambodia - it's a long review!

My partner and I got back from 2 weeks in Cambodia this month. We had a wonderful time so I thought I would share our trip.

We arrived in PP early in the morning on a flight from Singapore. The heat, the rubbish on the streets and the crazy driving was all a bit of a shock to the system for us. We were staying at the Pavilion which was a little oasis but as we checked in so early, we ventured out to get some brekkie and take in the place. I had thought the waterfront would be a good place to start but this was all in upheaval with construction work ongoing. In the end we grabbed a scrummy bowl of noodles somewhere with the most delicious banana shake and stumbled back to the hotel to chill.

We didn%26#39;t end up doing much those 2 days in PP. Found the FCC and loved having drinks there, and ended up eating tiwce there too ( food not that great, in fact pizza totally tasteless which was weird giving number of toppings on it). To explain, partner was v ill in Thailand last year so he was reluctant to eat just any old place. We went to the National Museum which was lovely and very peaceful, again a lovely contrast to the hussle and bussle outside. We also went to the Russian market which we found a bit overwhelming. it was also somewhat void of other tourists so a bit strange.

2 days later we got the bus to SR. Have to confirm Mekong Express is the way to go. We didn%26#39;t manage to get seats on this bus on the way back and used another one which was nowhere near as good and only $1 less. Plus point of the bus, it lets you see the surrounding country side which was nice. Minus point, it takes a good 5-6 hours and not so good when yuo have a the misfortune of sitting near someone who doesn%26#39;t travel well. The hostess did their best to look after them though which was nice to see.

Siem Reap - what a contrast to PP. A lot quieter, traffic more sedate and just generally lovely. We stayed at the Day Inn, a nice 10 minute walk into town and a pool that was hardly ever used. I will do a separate review for both our hotels later but we would be more than happy to stay there if we ever go back. Brekkie not so vast but the noodle station hit the spot perfectly for us each morning. The chef does a fine omlette too!

We were in SR for 9 nights (this was longer than planned but due to changing our holiday becuase of Bangkok airport being closed, we decided to stay on longer in Cambodia. As it turns out, not long enough for me!). We chilled by the pool quite a bit, essential as we had been working long hours prior to the trip. We also got a temple pass for 3 days.

Temples - we had pre-arranged hiring a car and a guide for the first day, then a tuk tuk from outside our hotel for the other 2. In hindsight, I wish we had just got a tuk tuk all the time. Everyone%26#39;s different so this won%26#39;t necessarily be what appeals to all but I found it quite boring having the bas-reliefs described to me at length. Actually , as it turns out we were more interested in knowing about was the construction methods of the temples, which wasn%26#39;t so forthcoming. We did the little circuit I guess on the first day, then with our tuk tuk guy we did the big circuit on the second day and Banteay Srei the third day. I had wanted to go to Kbal Spean on the last day too but my SO was templed out and I didn%26#39;t want to push it! Not sure why, but we enjoyed day 2 and 3 so much more, maybe partly becuase in a tuk tuk you feel more engaged with the surroundings, but we were left to our own devices and reading from Lonely Planet was enough for us in the end. Each to their own I guess, it%26#39;s a hard one to know which will suit you more until you give it a shot I think.

Other days - we were fortunate enough to meet up with someone I knew who worked for Halo Trust and got a tour of the compound and explained the problems they face with de-mining. That was very interesting. We went to a school 45 minutes out of town through the Ponheary Ly Foundation and that was a real highlight of our trip too. We also hired bikes one afternoon and cycled about a bit, through rice paddy fields and little villages and that was great fun too (brakes not so good which was interesting...) Never made it to Tonle Sap River which I regret but we did go to the Tonle Sap Exhibition and I found that intersting too. Our one %26#39;night out%26#39; was to the hospital to hear Dr Richner play the cello and listen to his talks about the hospital and fund raising they do. Can highly recommend that too.

Food - didn%26#39;t sample too many places and the 2 times we tried khmer food I found it quite tasteless. I will put that down to them damping it down for tourists because I%26#39;m sure that can%26#39;t be how it is. We did find a great place on Pub St to sit and have a beer, some spring rolls and people watch, and I think we did that every night. Burgers without Borders - the BEST burger I think I%26#39;ve ever had. Phuket noodle - yummy but the rat droppings nearby a bit off putting. Butterflies Garden - wish we had tried this place earlier instead of our last day - yummy food and a very tranquil setting although not too many butterflies! Trying to remember where else we ate but can%26#39;t think just now. Beer 50 cents each, I discovered I quite like a beer, even progressed up to 3 in a night!!

After 9 days in SR, we headed back to PP for 2 days. I had booked us in for a full day cooking class with Frizz restaurant and we had a great time. Ended up having drinks with some of the class at the FCC later on which was good fun. Last day was frantic, squeezing in everything we had meant to do earlier. We went to the Royal Palace in the morning, then S21 which was harrowing, then onto the Russian Market, then to the Killing Fields and then taken to the Central Market. it was a full day, and I wish we had done one or two of the things earlier in the trip but we were just finding our feet. We discovered a restaurant called La Croissette that did a nice steak so ended up there 3 nights in a row. They also do a yummy pepper squid and rice.

We also at at Friends while there and the Boddhi Tree opposite S21 - that was veyr yummy, shame we weren%26#39;t hungry at the stage though.

Shopping - this is not my forte which I regret as I%26#39;m sure we could have boughts loads. In both SR and PP I was overwhelmed byt the fact that most stalls seemed to haev the same thing and with hardly any tourists about, I felt we were being watched. If I touched something, they would be all over me which was off putting. In the end, we bought lots of silk/cotton scarves as gifts ( I did like wearing them over my bare shoulders in the evening). We also bought some lovely bags from the Friends shop, I like what they do with the recycled rice sacks. Of course we bought some cds and dvds too. And after my cooking class I had to buy a wooden pestle and mortar which weighed a ton! There were a few t-shirts in there too but not much else. I was conscious our bag was near its limit anyway but maybe next time I will be more prepared.....

Well, I think that%26#39;s it! Sorry, longer than I thought. We had a lovely time in Cambodia, ironically I thought the temples would be the highlight for me but I enjoyed more the trips where we encountered the locals and the surrounding area. Hiring the bikes was really a good way to see that. We found everyone to be so lovely and so kind and despite the poverty, they seemed so very happy. it was a real eye opener for us, seeing that kind of poverty everywhere and I%26#39;m glad we were able to make a contribution to some charities while we were there.

I hope this has helped someone else and any questions, fire away!

Recently back from Cambodia - it's a long review!

Thank you artemis,

did enjoyed reading your report :)

At last a genuine report that doesn%26#39;t talk about an amazing guide, a skilled tuk-tuk driver or an astonishing hotel :p

Recently back from Cambodia - it's a long review!

Loved your report, and second no 1 posters thought regarding Tuk Tuks, l%26#39;m not into guide%26#39;s either!

Where did you stay in PP??

Good , honest report , La Croissette is a good place to eat , but you can eat as good elsewhere for less but without the ambience .Kymer food does tend to be bland on average , but if you eat it on the river-side it is usualy more tasty . The markets were most likely dry of tourists because this is the low season although i must admit , has been quite busy down by the river .Yes , the people are a happy , friendly bunch despite the abstract poverty . Pleased to hear you enjoyed your trip in general , next trip you will be better informed .

Hi,

Loved reading your report. We loved Siem Reap too and wish we had longer there. The FCC in PP is a great spot and we also found the food a little average, but the view and atmposhpere made up for it.

Thanks for a great JBR!

- k

Thanks for a great report Artemis!

AnnG62 - we stayed at the Pavilion in PP, in a varety of rooms because we had to cancel our booking initially thinking our whole holiday was up the spout due to Bangkok, then re-booked but they were full up. They were very helpful at moving us about though. All rooms lovely, breakfast scrummy, and only issue was the water pressure.

Thanks for all the comments, we loved Cambodia and if we ever do go back, which I%26#39;m sure we will, I%26#39;ll be more savvy on how to get around. Found the haggling for tuk tuks in PP a bit hard, just generally useless at haggling I guess.

Thanks for the great report! We are planning a 15 day trip to Laos and Cambodia (last 4-5 days in Thailand for a beach chill-out). Our current Cambodia itinerary has us staying 4 days in Siem Reap only (no PP). What are your thoughts..? Should we add a day or two to see PP..? Think we%26#39;re speding 4-5 days in Laos (Luang Prabang and Vientiene). Thanks for any help.

That%26#39;s a tricky one, if you have the time then I would go to PP. At a push you could see the city highlights in a day, which is pretty much what we did on the last day. However, if you can, spend 2 days there so it%26#39;s not a mad rush. Seems a shame to go all the way to Cambodia and not see the city. The main thing is S21 and the Killing Fields and you really shouldn%26#39;t rush S21.

For me, while the temples are pretty in PP, you can see similar in Thailand, and by the time you have seen the temples in SR, you may be happy not to see anymore!

If you have only a few days in SR though.....not an easy one to decide on I think. And bear in mind if you are getting the bus, you lose a lot of time that way too.

Great trip report.

I live in Thailand and travel to Cambodia quite often, so I know all the places you are referring to and sympathize with your food and tour guide experiences. You are right the tour guides can quite often be more of a detriment than a help in exploring the temples.

There are some more remote places where they are essential though, as they are all registered with the government, they can be trusted to watch over your expensive camera equipment while you go into the bushes to relieve yourself. I would not try that with a tuk-tuk driver you have picked up for the day.

For your next trip to Siem Reap and for others who are planning to go there. Great places on Pub Street - the Red Piano is good for coffee or beer (Angelina Jolie%26#39;s hangout in SR), the Soup Dragon has very good food, great service and a great balcony for people watching, the Blue Pumpkin has good ice cream, smoothies and baked goods, plus Wifi and the upstairs looks like the Milk Bar in Clockwork Orange.

Have fun.

Whoops, forgot about the Blue Pumpkin, only tried their ice cream there and only twice but both delicious. I was too full each time we walked past!

Cambodian Soup was the name of the spring roll place that was our regular haunt. It is next to a Mexican restaurant if that is any help to anyone.

Just remembered a must do - at the night market, they have a Dr Fish massage stand. This is just great. $3 for 15 minutes, and a lot of fun. One family came and all the fish swarmed to them, must have been particularly tasty feet... It%26#39;s very tickly but a great experience!