Hi all!
A very big thank you to everyone on this forum who gave me great advice and helped ensure that our 4 days in Siem Reap were memorable. Special thanks to Villefranche, CatmanWilly, Alr837, 3ofusMelbourne, BanaPona, Huow, Heathbrisbane, Truckeruk, Richray and Archwaykid. Thanks also to PeaceofAngkor , Gogirlaussie , DrewV ,Jason1010, Handysmith , jOeLiTo CarolfColorado,Aussie45,Fusball223,,Liyen,Ballu,TTJJ,Talb,Bennow,Billyboy1957,Zhuhai2007Tansiub, Paperpower,Local6hand,Epidermis and Pataua. The names are not in any particular order and if I have forgotten anyone ( forgetting is something I seem to do on a consistent basis nowadays ), I apologize.
We had a wonderful time in Siem Reap and have two regrets - that we could not spend more time there and could not visit Phnom Penh.
Our flight from Singapore to Siem Reap on JetStar was smooth and enjoyable and Siem Reap looked absolutely enchanting from the air – all palm trees and greenery beneath wispy clouds. The airport was a delight – lovely architecture, welcoming and clean, with splendid statues and artifacts inside. It took us a very long time, however, to clear immigration and get to our bags – our e-visas were a waste because we had to get our pics taken anyway ( no charge) and our queue was actually the one that moved forward at the slowest pace!
Sony was our driver for 3 days; we got him through Soryar ( he is Soryar’s brother-in-law). He is a delightful young man in his twenties who talks almost non-stop! We enjoyed his company and his anecdotes as well as his musings about Cambodia, girls, his family and his work.
The Day Inn Angkor which is Cambodian-owned-and-run was where we based ourselves- we really liked its quiet location as well as its architecture. Check-in was not very smooth as the person we had corresponded with was on her day off and the room we got was not the one we had asked and arranged for; however, they did offer to move us the next day. Breakfast at the hotel is tasty with many choices and the courtyard ( with pool) that all the rooms overlook, is lovely and tranquil.
We explored Angkor Wat and Bayon at length, starting with a sublime sunrise over Angkor Wat. Our time in SR was unhurried because we knew which temples we definitely wanted to see ( Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom group including Bayon, Ta Prohm, Pre Rup and Banteay Srei); we spent the first day after our two flights just relaxing, hanging out at the hotel, walking in the neighbourhood and getting a delicious take-out pizza for dinner from Hawaii Pizza House; skipped Tonle Sap; spent the second and third day exploring the temples and devoted the fourth and last day to visiting the silk farm ( which has a café run by the Blue Pumpkin people), Cambodian Cultural Village and the fantastic outdoor war museum.
We loved ArtisansD’Angkor and bought some excellent hand-crafted souvenirs there; visited AkiRa’s Land Mine museum, which is now housed in a spanking new building ( he was absent that day so we didn’t get to meet him, unfortunately); and went on an elephant ride around the Bayon temple. This last however, while very memorable, was something we profusely apologized to Samban ( our pachyderm) for, as soon as we were aloft on his back. We would not do it again anywhere, simply because we felt awful and cruel, looking down on his cute head with its couple of hairs and his plodding feet as he carried us around Bayon, dutifully stopping at photo-op stops – awful that we were subjecting him to our weight, awful that we were one of many tourists who’d be doing this throughout the day, and especially awful that we never thought about all this before we sat on his back and set off. At the end of the 15 minute ride, I bought a dozen bananas, fed him, patted his flank, told him I was very, very sorry and thanked him profusely. He gobbled everything in a flash and I think ( I hope) he forgave me. My first and last elephant ride. Don’t know how on earth people merrily ride these elephants up a hill .. but who am I to talk.
The Cambodian Cultural Village was still under construction when we visited; it’s a cross between an authentic cultural experience and Disneyland. Admission was nine dollars but they are supposedly going to raise this when it is complete. They do have a couple of great displays that showcase Cambodian people and their history and we were able to see an enactment of a typical Cambodian wedding - very colorful and noisy. Lovely landscaping all over; a huge restaurant where we were the sole occupants for a late lunch; giant sculptures of mythological figures; authentic re-creations of different types of Cambodian houses. However, this is not a place run by the Government as we first thought; it is a private Chinese-run enterprise and as construction goes on it’s becoming more and more like an amusement park.
I’m not even going to touch on Angkor Wat and the other temples because words do not do them justice. Suffice it to say that we feel extremely blessed that we had the chance and the means to see them.
We bought a 3 day pass for the temples but in retrospect, we should have bought the 2-day pass as we never “used” the 3rd day. We were taken aback when we learnt that a large part of the fees that tourists pay for the temples go to the Sokha Group ( a Chinese company) which has contracted with the government to be the sole concessionaire. The hotels that line the main road from the airport are all owned by foreign companies.
Food-wise, we liked Khmer Kitchen for its delicious fare ( yes, I had the spinach and garlic with rice) and ate at a couple of other local places whose names I do not remember ( Sony took us there). The beer was good as was coconut water straight from the source; our hotel packed a substantial breakfast for us on the day we saw the sun rise at Angkor Wat; I never got to toast Alr837 with vodka; and horror of horrors, I never got to eat at the Blue Pumpkin because we simply were too busy exploring the temples from morning to evening. I kept wailing to my companions, “ But..but..but.. Marian and the others told me not to miss the Blue Pumpkin…”.
At least, I got to eat at their branch café at the Silk Farm.
Speaking of the latter, I think I persuaded my two companions to think twice before buying silk! They’d made light in the past about how silk is made but when they actually SAW those cocoons being boiled…..! The jury is out about whether the silkworms feel any pain during the process but I’m happy I wear cotton . I bought some non-silk items at the gift shop .
Our hotel had said they’d booked seats for us at Kulen 2 for the apsara dance/dinner show but we were told when we arrived that the seats were no longer available ( apparently a big tour group showed up and Kulen just gave those seats to them!!). So we ended up going to the Mondial ( hotel got us seats at the very front) which had a pretty good show. The three of us enjoyed the folk dances more than the apsara dances, which were riveting in the beginning but became a bit tedious later on, as each dance has the same slow movements ( amazing dexterity and balance on the part of the dancers, though, as slow steps are the most difficult to maintain).
As with any place in the world, it’s the people of SR who make it what it is. Cambodians are friendly, sweet and polite; they have been through so much and yet remain resilient and are very hard-working. We saw a lot of the countryside with its miles of paddy fields as well as villagers, monks and children whose smiling faces belie the sadness and horrors their country- and in many,many cases - they personally have experienced.
A tip to all those who will be visiting SR – there are two small free-of-charge booklets that are available at any hotel or store catering to tourists, which we found very useful. One is called Out and About and the other is titled Drinking and Dining ( both are Pocket Cambodia Guides). We did take one guide book with us ( Dawn Rooney’s Angkor) but it is big and not too handy for lugging around – it’s a beautifully detailed and illustrated book that you will want to keep always but again in retrospect, I think I’d go with a smaller temple guide. We had a guide with us for both days at the temples, as well – and that worked out very well for us.
Thank you all again, or as the Cambodians say – Aw-Khun!
Thank you, everyone!
Correction .. ';awful that we were three of many tourists...';.
The squares that appear in my post above are where I had put in a smiley face.
Forgive me for any typos.
Thank you, everyone!
I forgot to add these names ( I KNEW it!!) to my thank-you list:
Bruz and BornWithPassport.
Thanks!!
OMG! I left out Fish2 who was such a big help..and also didn%26#39;t mention CathyandGary.
Thank you - very much. Fish, I left a message for you in the Singapore forum.
Okay, I%26#39;m not going to clutter this thread anymore with more posts about my omissions - just a big thank you to everyone and please don%26#39;t be offended if I%26#39;ve left you out.
Wow, what a great report on Siem Reap. loved every minute of it and glad you like the Day Inn. Maybe Phnom Penh next time haha
Cathy
Wow Livinglife! Thanks for taking the time to post your superb report. Your feedback and tips will help other travelers. Sounds like you had a wonderful trip!
I share your thoughts on the Elephant ride.
We almost did one at Bayon temple but back out as we didn’t want to subject the animal to our weight..
Glad you stayed at a Cambodian-owned-and-run hotel
Yes it is a great report, thanks Livinglife!
I share the same thoughts about the Cambodian Cultural Village. I felt more the amusement park side than the authentic cultural experience. In fact I left after only seeing a few attractions.
Well, now you%26#39;re going to have to go back and find that vodka for me! lol
Glad you had an amazing time, still very jealous that I cant get out there again soon!
Glad that you had a great time. :) Cambodia is my fav place in the world. :)
BTW, where do you live in US? Just curious. If you ever are in Singapore, let%26#39;s meet up! I know some other TAers who get together occasionally. :)
I agree that the fees for Angkor park should go to the people - it is not unusual for the Cambodian people to get screwed by their Gov%26#39;t. Luckily, as a tourist, we do have chances to contribute economically to the people directly - whether it is buying books in the Angkor Wat parking lot (I know they are copied - but who can resist those sweet girls!) or shopping or eating at a NGO-sponsored place that gives Cambodians employability skills.
Thanks, guys!
Cathy - Yes, Phnom Penh someday in the near future, I hope! I think your online journal of your travels with all the pics is just neat :-)
Villefranche - You are far kinder than thoughtless moi :-( ...haven%26#39;t forgotten that you donated all those bikes, such a lovely and generous contribution.
Samban might never have forgiven me if he%26#39;d met you first :-).
Alr - Yes, that unfulfilled vodka toast is excuse enough for me to return to SR, hehe. I%26#39;m jealous of YOU because this was just my first trip to Cambodia whereas you%26#39;ve been many times, have you not?
Huow - Great minds etc etc ;-)
BanaPona - To quote our macho governor, Arnold non-girly-man Schwarzie ... Kaal-ee-four-niya ;-). I wish I%26#39;d known about the TA meets in Singapore in 2006, when we had a mini-holiday there as usually we are just in transit through Changi..maybe we should hold one at the airport? :-) :-)
Which part of Cali? I lived in Santa Cruz for a number of years (7). We were just in LA, as a transit point - LAX really is bad. :( We stayed a couple days on the way back (from WI) as an ease on time zone transition, plus I have a couple friends living in the area.
If you transit for long, guess we can see what we can do. :)
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